an AUTUMN equinox ALIGNMENT
I am often asked the million dollar question quite casually by all sorts of random people. It can come at me from many different angles, in many varying circumstances, and at moments when I don't have a definitive answer ready beyond metaphoric glitz. People don't seem to always recognize the sensitivity, depth and complete vulnerability that is needed to answer that question absolutely. Even more than the greeting-like, “How long have you been here then?”, that pinnacle question of, “So, why did you come to Japan?”, somehow doesn't fit clearly into any A B C formula of explanation for me. Even now. If people are satisfied with my fumbling handmade answer, they then might ask, “How has it changed you?”. What isn't asked of me, yet could be equally revealing in its clarity, would be to ask how my Japanese partner has changed because of me.
I would answer that I gave my beau his first ever experience staying at an expensive Ryokan (Japanese lodge), in the ideallic Kurokawa Onsen in Kumamoto for a birthday weekend.
I introduced Australian fishing style to him in my hometown (where he caught a mini hammerhead shark, and gigantic female flathead, that gets him 'fisherman cred' even now in conversations with the blokes out drinking in Osaka).
Lastly, I would say the most distinct turn about I have seen for our daily life, is the transformation of taking a bath (for him) into something completely joyous and desirable.
Having said this, my J-beau handed me two tickets to Amayu Spa the other day, from the 'master' at his favourite local bar. “Massan didn't want these. He knows how much we like baths. Let's go in Silver Week J”. Delighted I was indeed! We hadn't been to Amayu Spa for quite some time, so off we went for a morning soak today to celebrate 'Shuubun no Hi' (Autumn Equinox). The place hadn't changed at all, and I could feel a nostalgic giggle bursting from within as soon as I entered the front doors.
Amayu Spa is only a few minutes from JR Amagasaki station, and a short drive from Umeda.
Compared to other bath houses that I regularly visit, Amayu is indeed a very different bathing experience. Amayu Spa Land is open 24 hours a day, and the standard price is 1575 yen for adults, and 630 yen for children. It is considerably more expensive than Gokurakuyu Spa (SEE 'SUPER Sento Sensational' in WELLNESS), although just as great, but offers a few more facilities to justify the price.
{Until the end of September, Amayu Spa is offering a “Twilight Time” special price for only 950 yen for entry between 17:00 – 20:00.}
The admission price covers many things. Upon entry to the bathing area, you receive a bag filled with a big towel, a small towel for the bath, a toothbrush (if you wish), and a choice of three outfits to wear after your bath; there are two Aloha-y ones, and a 'wafuu' (Japanese style) yukata. Shampoo and conditioner, plus body soap is provided within the bathing area, and you are also given a locker for the day. All this I guess is quite standard.
Upstairs though, there are a variety of rooms (gender segregated) where you can rest and read a book, take a long nap, or even for staying overnight. There are tatami mat rooms, day rooms, recliner chairs, blankets and plenty of peace and quiet. A cheap option for accommodation if you ever get stuck. For something more private, capsule rooms are also available for an additional price.
Downstairs there is a huge open shokudo-styled, izakaya-feel restaurant with various meals on offer, and extremely popular with the older set for the daily shows at 13:00 and 18:00. It is quite entertaining from the sideline to see the popular 'manzai men' comedians make everybody laugh hysterically loud, or the charismatic 'enka' singers making the ladies blush in their velvet bow ties, carnation, and white suit.
Once you pass through the 'noren' curtains to the bathing area, the quirky place behind you quickly transforms into a regular bath house. There are rows and rows and rows of lockers to cater for the bus loads of people, but if you get there early in the morning, you can almost have the place to yourself. If you would like an 'akasuri' Korean scrub down (2625 yen for 20 minutes), make sure you book because it is quite popular.
If you are still a bit shy, or just want some privacy, there is a private wash area at the back for 5 people (next to the glass doors to go outside) complete with softly playing enka music, 'ryokan' mooded view from your mirror, and a lovely old bath behind you to make the daydreaming more real.
The covered outdoor 'rotemburo' is outstanding in its outback Australia Uluru coloured bath water, and naturally stained pebble pathway. You can't see the bottom, so be careful; it is deceivingly deep. There are also three cute hot tubs (not so hot) outside with two 'momiji' maple trees and 'susuki' (pampas grass) in the landscape to soften your mood even more.
The Pegasus and Okinawa 'shisar' style lion heads gushing out the various bath water colours for each bath, the mosaic tiles on the bath floor, the high ceilings, and the big overgrown 'gomu' tree indoors are all friendly and welcoming.
Last time I was here, a brazen lady in the sauna abruptly asked me out of nowhere in the most matter-of-fact voice, “How old are you?”. How witty can you be when you are wrapped only in a tiny towel? The 'iriguchi' (entry point) when Japanese ladies talk to me at the bath house, is usually either, “Hada ga kirei desu ne” (you have lovely skin), or “Sutairu ga ii neeee” (you have a nice figure). I often make up some modest answer that somehow flatters them in return. It must have worked today because the cackle and chitchat of feedback in return from the ladies in the salt steam room was medicinal.
Just as I was about to leave today, a tiny elderly lady sees me, pauses, then looks at me and says, “SU TE KI” (lovely), and then in the biggest lady voice she could muster, she says, “WONDERFUL!!!” and toddles off.
What a great day! Find your own magic here at Amayu Spa.
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