SOBA splendid on a SUNDAY

Karani

I love the simplicity of 'udon' for lunch. Cheap, quick, delish and fun. I went to Takamatsu city in Kagawa-ken again last month to feast on udon for three meals a day, and visit my favourite Ritsurin Park; probably again by slow ferry for the long weekend in October. Noodles are Nice aren't they.

Instead of my usual 300 yen-ish bowl of udon goodness, today I visited 'Karani' for some atmospheric hand made 'soba' on my last day of school holidays before Semester 2 begins tomorrow proper. Located in the softly humming 'shoutengai' just 500 metres down from JR Fukushima station, Karani is a lovely Sunday lunch location. The place is fresh, feel-good and modernly old. Soba dishes range from 800 – 1300 yen, with a large selection of 'tsumami' (snacks) to begin your journey with some Heartland beer perhaps.

The man behind this shop, Kiyoshi san, is a surfer boy true. Mini splurges of surf photos and surf magazines here and there, add to the colour and charm of this corner place comfortable. His surfy tan, and radiantly shiny laughter lend the interior landscape some buzz and beauty.

The soba is just divine, and looks so very pretty; eat slowly and enjoy the different textures. There are thick and thin soba combinations, which to me look exquisitely feminine and masculine. After your meal, add some of the thick white 'sobayu' (in the jug) to your soba dipping sauce, and try drinking it. A distinctly refreshing way to end your meal experience.

Closed Thursdays, and every 4th Wednesday.

Open from 11:00 – 14:00 for lunch, and 17:00 – 20:30 for dinner.

HOW to get there:

Get off at JR Fukushima station on the Loop Line, and turn left out of the station. Cross the train tracks, and make an immediate left at Mister Donuts down into the 'shoutengai'. Cross over Amaidaike suji street intersection, and keep walking a little more. Karani is on the right hand side corner.

After your meal, you could have some coffee, cake and slow time at either the newly opened 'Cafe Stove' (in the 'shotengai' heading back to ward the station on the left side), (10:00 - 18:00 on weekends and public holidays, and 10:00 - 20:00 on weekdays.)

http://kissastove.blog64.fc2.com/

The staff are sweet ("Here won't you have some roll cake we got as a gift. We surely can't eat it all." they said to me on my first visit), the crockery is adorably retro, the hand made donuts are scrummy, and the mood is slowly healing.

Another great choice sensational is the nearby simplicity of 'a Terre' (with a little gift shop full of 'zakka' delights downstairs)

http://aterre.jp/

(Head back toward the station, cross over the Amidaike suji street intersection near the 7-11 convenience store, and turn left. Only a short walk away from there.)

Both are wonderful places to spend some time.

The KOROKKE KING

the notable NAKAMURA-ya

Japan is the land of 'gyoretsu' (lining up). It's not like at home where people line up to get into a favourite nightclub, for tickets to a sure-to-sell-out concert, or even for an end-of-year clearance sale at a big department store (think the Boxing Day Christmas sales of cards, wrapping paper and bon bons filled with those fabulous-for-fotos tissue paper hats, a joke, and a plastic toy).

Japanese people seem so used to the culture of lining up; we see it daily at the train station in the expected 'niretsu' (two lines) on the platform. Foreign friends who visit Osaka always take photos of the Japanese lined up in various locations of calm organization; something I have of course grown used to by now (and particularly grateful).

Restaurants of popularity always have seats outside for their waiting customers, and the establishments aware even the colder months won't keep people away, have heaters, blankets and ashtrays. The waiting seems to weave into the story of the event itself; the anticipation of amazing things to come. You can see the joy in people's faces when they get close to the head of the queue, and even the look of complete acceptance when they see couples and couples ahead of them.

Line ups in Japan seem to guarantee somehow that the place is worth it.

I wonder for what, and for how long you are all willing to wait?

I waited 30 minutes the other night at Hana Kujira because I just had to have some Oden despite the bad timing of when I went. Shin Sekai (New World) near Tsutenkaku Tower always has wonderful line ups at the most famous places for 'kushikatsu' on the weekend; it is expected, and people wait.

The 70 yen 'croquette' served at Nakamura-ya in Tenma are worth it. Wait if you have to.

Eaten immediately, or served later on fresh bread, they melt away in your mouth. The Japanese gourmet website Tabe-log is full of comments by everyday people who rate and write about their experiences at different places about town. My favourite comment for the Nakamura-ya korokke are 'amakute hoku hoku' (sweet and steamy hot), and the very desirable 'The Korokke King'.

Nakamura-ya is open 9:00 – 18:30 Monday through Saturday.

Closed on Public Holidays.

Practice your katakana voice with the easy to read menu.

http://r.tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270103/27003769/dtlrvwlst/939078/1444665/

Nakamura-ya is located in Tenjin bashi suji Shotengai, which is the longest covered shopping arcade in Japan. There are so many fun and truly Osaka humming places within this arcade.

The very busy Osaka Tenmangu Shrine (Tenjin-san) is located just nearby,

http://www.tenjinsan.com/

as is the interesting Tenman Tenjin Hanjotei which has various Rakugo and Kyogen performances.

http://www.hanjotei.jp/index.html

(Or perhaps just for a silly photo dressed as a kimono-clad warrior posed through a head hole display?)

HOW to get there:

If you are going by train, get off at Minami Morimachi station

(Tanimachi and Sakaisuji Lines)

or

Osaka Tenmangu station (on the JR Tozai Line) through EXIT 3.

You will come up the never ending stairs to the busy Sonezaki street. Turn left, and left again into the Tenjin Bashi 2 shotengai (shopping arcade). The croquette shop is just there all mini and unassuming on the right hand side; perhaps with a line up depending on the time of day. Naturally lunchtime is especially busy. Try to avoid THIS if you can.

http://r.tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270103/27003769/dtlrvwlst/869125/1238145/

the KARI KARI MELON pan SHOP

panetteria pane pane

Standing at the start of KUROMON shopping arcade looking out on Sakaisuji street, you will see the sunflower sweet-looking golden awning of Panetteria pane pane on the opposite corner. It is said to be the best of the best by 'kuchi komi' (word of mouth), for the all time favourite of Japanese treats, Melon Pan. The only reason I know about this place is not because I eat Melon Pan for breakfast daily, nor because I am a regular customer.

I was randomly peeking up from time to time from my Master coursework studies one Sunday afternoon. On TV, my beau was watching another one of those 'Kansai Secrets' type programs that list the most popular destinations for a variety of goods (Udon, Sushi, Coffee, Okonomiyaki etc), and is completely synonymous with the “oishisoo” (looks yummy) and “tabetai naaa” (I wanna eat it!) from famous guests on the show. In one of the commercial breaks, I suddenly hear this, “I wanna eat MERONPAN. Let's go down to this shop in Nipponbashi!”.

Now, I have to say straight up that Melon Pan is not my thing. Never has been. Nor is white bread. I only said yes to the cycle downtown for a break in study, and some fresh air. We jumped on our bikes, and headed toward Nipponbashi. We arrived maybe only 25 minutes after the original airing on TV of this particular shop, but what we saw was incredible. Lined up outside the shop were people, people and more people; all eager for a bit of Melon pan action. Had every single person in this line been watching the same channel? Did they all have this intense craving for melon pan too? It was quite shocking in a way, the absolute influence of TV so immediately. I felt quite embarrassed lining up, as though everybody knew I had been at home watching TV on such a lovely Sunday! I was also a little antsy knowing what was ahead of me.

Lines of Japanese people never seem to move smoothe enough for me. No doubt the response of people to the show was a little more popular than had been expected. Or perhaps it is because once people wait in line for so long, they buy extra! We just wanted one! One melon pan please!

After around 25 minutes or so, we were at the front of the line. Eagerness, yet mini fear was building. Will they be sold out? Is there enough for us? I suddenly decided I just had to try one! So, when we got to the window, I ordered two. I will admit it. They were mighty fine. Crunchy, freshly baked, and melty in your mouth. Not since then have I had another Melon Pan, but if we go back to Nipponbashi again, I may just be persuaded to try another.

Melon Pan range from 130 – 150 yen each, with varieties like strawberry, chocolate, curry and regular.

A map can be found at the bottom of this webpage (in Japanese), along with some Melon Pan photographs.

http://r.tabelog.com/osaka/A2702/A270202/27011056/

Panetteria pane pane is open 10:00 – 19:00 and closed on Wednesday.

Bon Apetit non believers!