panetteria pane pane
Standing at the start of KUROMON shopping arcade looking out on Sakaisuji street, you will see the sunflower sweet-looking golden awning of Panetteria pane pane on the opposite corner. It is said to be the best of the best by 'kuchi komi' (word of mouth), for the all time favourite of Japanese treats, Melon Pan. The only reason I know about this place is not because I eat Melon Pan for breakfast daily, nor because I am a regular customer.
I was randomly peeking up from time to time from my Master coursework studies one Sunday afternoon. On TV, my beau was watching another one of those 'Kansai Secrets' type programs that list the most popular destinations for a variety of goods (Udon, Sushi, Coffee, Okonomiyaki etc), and is completely synonymous with the “oishisoo” (looks yummy) and “tabetai naaa” (I wanna eat it!) from famous guests on the show. In one of the commercial breaks, I suddenly hear this, “I wanna eat MERONPAN. Let's go down to this shop in Nipponbashi!”.
Now, I have to say straight up that Melon Pan is not my thing. Never has been. Nor is white bread. I only said yes to the cycle downtown for a break in study, and some fresh air. We jumped on our bikes, and headed toward Nipponbashi. We arrived maybe only 25 minutes after the original airing on TV of this particular shop, but what we saw was incredible. Lined up outside the shop were people, people and more people; all eager for a bit of Melon pan action. Had every single person in this line been watching the same channel? Did they all have this intense craving for melon pan too? It was quite shocking in a way, the absolute influence of TV so immediately. I felt quite embarrassed lining up, as though everybody knew I had been at home watching TV on such a lovely Sunday! I was also a little antsy knowing what was ahead of me.
Lines of Japanese people never seem to move smoothe enough for me. No doubt the response of people to the show was a little more popular than had been expected. Or perhaps it is because once people wait in line for so long, they buy extra! We just wanted one! One melon pan please!
After around 25 minutes or so, we were at the front of the line. Eagerness, yet mini fear was building. Will they be sold out? Is there enough for us? I suddenly decided I just had to try one! So, when we got to the window, I ordered two. I will admit it. They were mighty fine. Crunchy, freshly baked, and melty in your mouth. Not since then have I had another Melon Pan, but if we go back to Nipponbashi again, I may just be persuaded to try another.
Melon Pan range from 130 – 150 yen each, with varieties like strawberry, chocolate, curry and regular.
A map can be found at the bottom of this webpage (in Japanese), along with some Melon Pan photographs.
Panetteria pane pane is open 10:00 – 19:00 and closed on Wednesday.
Bon Apetit non believers!
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