underground UDON
My students often ask me which noodles I like best in Japan. They try to pick my character somehow by how I will answer. They try to decipher my depth of Japanese-ness by what I like, and how I eat it. It is not as potentially dangerous in securing my non-native identity as perhaps say, “Do you like “natto” (fermented soy beans), “horumon” (intestinal cow parts), or “ikura” (those orange fish egg squishy thing-ies at sushi bars) Janelle?” No, the noodle question can be quite fun and playful, and in silly ways almost intimate; almost a way of connecting, almost a way of allowing them to see me beyond my foreign teacher label.
The title of this piece of course gives away the biggest clue. Udon rocks my world. I love the chunky-ness and the volume. I love the variety and the texture. I love the staff wrapped in non-uniform uniform of head towels and big smiles, stirring the big pot of broth. I love the easy satisfaction you get from a bowl of Udon noodles, and I love the easy price. As much as I love the mood of late-late night ramen on the way home after a fabulous time out, I definitely have a soft spot sweet for udon.
Always on the lookout for new places, especially in busy, busier, busiest Umeda, I came across this gem the other day. Donmaru is a cheap eat establishment in the Sanuki Udon style, which means it has a self serve area where you can pick your add-ons to your basic bowl of noodles. Basically you can create your own bowl of goodness depending on your needs and frame of mind. Udon quantity comes in small (sho), medium (chu) or large (dai) to suit your appetite, and can be hot (atatakai) or cold (tsumetai).
There are vegetable tempura style toppings (pumpkin, egg, chikuwa, eggplant etc.), traditional toppings (wakame seaweed, kelp kombu, radish, spring onion etc.) hand made onigiri, and mini side salads.
The best thing for me about this Higashi Umeda store Donmaru, is that you quickly forget the rush and rumble of what lies above ground, and quickly find your own pocket of space private and peaceful. There is low key lighting, elegantly simple wooden tables and chairs, and a diversity of customers stimulating. The orange walls give you genki, and the food jigs you up. The seating layout allows you to take it slow with friends, stand up and slurp, or just be alone comfortably with ease. Listen to the J-pop tunes and enjoy. Easy on the wallet, and easy on the digestion, have a bit of udon for lunch today!
You'll find Donmaru just around the corner from Sonezaki Police station on the corner, and the well known Asahiya Bookstore on Midousuji street (You'll also see the funny boldly coloured orange bank in the middle there too!). Go down the subway entrance directly next to the glasses shop (just near the bookshop). It's underground at the bottom of the stairs there.
Donmaru is open everyday 11:00 - 22:00. Closed every 3rd SUNDAY.
Some prices and pictures are here (in Japanese).
Take a peek at the fabulously feel-good movie “UDON” with English subtitles on You Tube.
It will certainly make you want to take a trip to Shikoku; the land of Sanuki Udon. I travel to Takamatsu city (the self-proclaimed Udon Kingdom) in Kagawa Prefecture by slow ferry from Sannomiya Kobe at least twice a year. It is simply stunning in simplicity and sheer originality of places to eat at.
Here's a simple description of Sanuki Udon types
(in English; just scroll down a little)
There is a 80 yen off coupon here for DONMARU udon noodles and broth (JUST add your favourite tempura style vegetable toppings! It's fun!)
Coupon ends August 31st, 2009.
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