GOKURAKUYU
I clearly remember the first time I got naked in front of strangers in Japan. I was 17, and going to my first ever bath house with my host family on a mini Winter holiday in the Northern prefecture of Toyama. My sweet family mentioned it to me the day before, perhaps knowing I might need some 'kokoro no junbi' (mental preparation). I remember I couldn't sleep the night before, imagining all horror scenarios, and wondering what I would do with my line of vision. I was petrified. When I woke the next day, something inside me had decided my fate; or perhaps it was that naïve promise I had made to myself departing from Sydney airport alone for my first overseas trip. Be brave and try everything. Get out of your comfort zone. Have no regrets (and all that...). Kyaaaa. Thinking back now, it wasn't so bad after all. I remember almost bouncing about afterwards; strutting and oozing with some internal pride gigantic. “I got naked in Japan” Oh the memories!
I shocked myself this morning when I started conceptualizing this story, that about twenty years has already passed since that first step into Japanese 'sento' (bath house). Twenty years. Quite similar to the feeling when one of my first year university students suddenly recalls in class the fabulous Halloween Parties I held at his Elementary school in Grades 5 and 6. How can that be? I am still so young with so much ahead of me. Life has such tingly moments of earth shattering reality checking. I grin, I smile, and I remember deeply all those first time encounters with Japanese cultural ways. Things that have become part of my fabric internal, and lifestyle enriching.
I go and have a public bath at least once a week now. There are still so many in my neighbourhood; I am blessed with choices a mere 5 minute bike ride away. Even more than Japanese food, efficient trains, and cheap sushi, I would miss the small scale local 'sento' and 'onsen' (hot spring baths) the absolute most if I ever left. I know it in my core. To add another layer to this story, I had my first ever Summer Super Sento experience in the middle of a scorching hot day. This is what happened.
Monday awoke in complete precision. The sky was alive with perfection from the outset. It was a day that Japanese people say as being 'Sentaku Biyori' (perfect day for doing the laundry), but I manipulate it (completely incorrectly) and call it things unnatural to Japanese people like 'Kisseki Biyori' (a day for miracles), 'Koofuku Biyori' (a day of complete joy), or even 'Kansha Biyori' (a day for absolute gratitude). My imagination with language will always trump my fluency and accuracy; I don't mind at all being imperfect.
I was out and about in the city on my bike early, when my beau Yoichi mails me declaring, “Super Sento. Let's go!”. He had rearranged his schedule cleverly so he could get his evening class off. Days like Monday make him happier for different reasons to me; he can sunbake. Since meeting him, I have (finally) learned to enjoy 'umeboshi' (pickled plums), and he has (finally) developed a love of bath houses. I find it so delightful the way we are influenced by the people in our lives.
The “Super Sento” in question, is the fantastic Gokurakuyu.
It is not a tacky one with water slides and wave pools, but merely just a larger scale version of my local bath house down the road. It is friendly, light and bright, non-confrontational, and has all sorts of baths and facilities indoors and outdoors. It is also superb value at only 410 yen; which was only recently reduced from the standard price of 700 yen. I had found out about Gokurakuyu whilst visiting another bath house in the area. The old lady who was talking to me in the sauna, had mentioned it as a recommended place. Going there on Monday in daylight hours though, gave me a whole new insight in to bathing subcultures.
From the feet numbing chill of the 16.7 degree 'mizuburo' (cold water bath), to the 41.6 hot water baths of various identities, you can really have a lot of fun experimenting with different routines. There is a cave-like steam sauna room with salt (amazing for your circulation), step style sauna room large, a Winnie the Pooh pool for the kids (to be kids) in Summer, stretch out chairs in the shade, and a TV in the sauna room and the main outdoor area. The powerful 'obaachan' (women older) get together and shoot the breeze like they are teenagers. It is so much fun to see their vigor and health aglow.
You can also get the Korean beauty treatment of 'akasuri' here. It basically feels like somebody is scrubbing you down hard with a 'tawashi' (a scourer of sorts). A 15 minute trial session is 2100 yen (which is all I ever need), and is exceptional for good circulation and dead skin removal (which basically looks like eraser shavings). There are a variety of Korean ladies there, and depending on when you go, very talkative. Your body feels tingly, rushy and very clean afterwards (I imagine it is like shaving off a beard you've had for some time, and all you have left is the real skin remaining). There is also a Thai style massage facility as well (which I haven't tried).
You can rent a bath towel (150 yen), or buy various bath goodies if you forget yours. The signature Gokurakuyu mini towel is also only 150 yen to remember your visit. Gokurakuyu is open from 6:00 on Saturday and Sunday, so why not take an 'asaburo' (morning bath)? It is often quite difficult to find smaller bath houses that open so early. Can you imagine a hot 6:00 bath on a cold, cold Christmas or New Years Day in Japan? What a way to beat getting home sick! I want to try it!
Gokurakuyu is a popular place, so usually busy on the weekend, but not so crowded that you can't find peace. It is only about a 20 minute drive from Umeda (with a big carpark ), and open everyday of the year.
Here is an image of the shop front.
Opening hours are 10:00 - 2:00 on weekdays,
and 6:00 - 2:00 on Saturday, Sunday and Public holidays
There is a map in Japanese here.
It is a 10 minute walk from JR Amagsaki station, or there is a free pick up bus from three locations.
See the following site (in Japanese).
(The three stops are from left, Hanshin Amagasaki South exit, JR Amagaski South exit, or JR Amagasaki North exit)
If you like the feel of this sento style, Gokurakuyu locations are on each island of Japan (except Shikoku). See the map here for different locations in Japan (in Japanese). There might even be one closer to you!
Another reason you might want to visit this area is because the Amagasaki branch of Costco is just near Gokurakuyu.
The Carrefour shopping complex is also directly next to Costco.
The French supermarket Carrefour, is big and breezy with Amelie-styled soundtrack music, a good bread, cheese and cereal selection, and foreign food condiments you may be craving (I was happy to finally find some Vegemite!).
Coming by car might be a better option if you plan to stock up at Costco and Carrefour. Make sure you do your shopping first though; taking a bath makes you extremely hungry.
The popular Kura Zushi is just nearby too if you need a feed.
See the map below (in Japanese).
If you have never gone to a public house, I highly recommend it. People don't stare. They don't really care. If anything, they will probably scrub your back, or tell you you are beautiful (or extremely dapper!). It is also such a fine way to stay healthy. At 410 yen, that's better than any prevention I know.
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