it has to be ODEN

Hana Kujira HOT pot

There's something undeniably nourishing about Oden for me. Whenever I'm feeling without energy, notice tinges of an approaching unbalance, or even when some kind of homesickness malady won't disappear, the first thing I crave is the mood and taste of Hana Kujira Oden. It is simply outstanding. Go there alone, or grab favourite friends for a night of delight.

There are actually two Hana Kujira shops located just near each other, and another further away hidden in the maze of streets around 6-chome. Two are mini-micro and very cosy-cute; perfect for dinners of two with lots of ice-cold beer. The other larger main shop has space for larger groups with both tables and counter top spaces. The counter seating is much more atmospheric and essential for first time visitors. With no real prices listed, nor a hand-held menu, just take a peek in the big pot, look at the plates of food next to you, or go with the hiragana on the wall menu; it is all very reasonably priced. Your favourites like daikon (radish), negi-bukuro (spring onion bag with ginger), tamago (egg), atsuage (thick fried tofu), chikuwa (fish cake log-lookalike), goboten (burdock root delight), UFO (try it!), and even the humble potato (jagaimo) are all there awaiting your uuu's and ahhh's of complete surrender. Whale too if you like (hence the shop name KUJIRA).

There are however lines of people every single night of the week. The trick is to get there extra early, or a little later than standard if you aren't one to line up. An early dinner around five thirty on a Saturday evening at the main location, is particularly heavenly as an initial introduction to the mood of the food. The open L-counter seating will very quickly transform into a lively, warm and easygoing place of gourmet goodness and satisfied smiles. Weekday nights are full of locals and employees from the newly located ABC TV just down the road at Dojima.

You too, like so many of the happy Japanese regulars, will surely be enveloped by the simplicity, and energized by the active buzz. You might also be offered sake by the older man next to you, asked to join in a loud comradery salut of “Otsukaresama desu!”on a Friday night, or even be quizzed on your knowledge of Japan. Everybody is always very friendly, welcoming and with a definite ease of spirit. Whenever I visit there alone, customers always talk to me in their inquisitive voices and undertones of curiosity brimming. I'm not sure how foreign men are complimented in Japan, but I must admit I have had some very interesting and insightful take-home quotes real beyond the traditionally feminine versioning of “Kawaii” or “Beppin-san desu neeee”.

Don't be fooled into thinking that Oden is merely a Winter food either. When Summer appetites melt away, and “Natsu Bate” (Summer fatigue) takes a hold, why not try something beyond cold noodles and jumbo salads to get your digestive system moving and shaking. It took me a while to believe that taking a hot bath in Summer would actually allow me that deep feeling of refreshment and renewal that I see on the faces of bath house returnees early evening time always. I know better now. Yes I do.

To FIND YOUR WAY there:

(directions to the 2 Hana Kujira shops located nearby each other)

From JR Loop Line Fukushima station (ONLY one exit), turn right and walk toward the main intersection of Naniwa-suji and Sonezaki-dori. Cross the street and walk one block. Turn right at the temple complex on the corner. The mini-sized HANA Kujira is just there. The more spacious shop is on the right side corner just in front. You can't miss them.

You can also get there by the JR Tozai Line (Shin Fukushima station) which brings you out directly at the intersection crosswalk. Use exit 1.

The Hana Kujira website is located here (in Japanese only).

http://www.hanakujira.com/index.html

If you are a map person, try this site in Japanese.

http://r.tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270108/27001230/dtlmap/