ゼー六
Traditional MONAKA ice cream and coffee
Random discoveries of any kind are golden. They make me feel alive and lucky. The one I accidentally bumped into yesterday was a 96 year old home-made Monaka ice cream shop. There was such a magnetic aura surrounding the entire area. What could be more deliciously appealing on a hot Summer day in August. Trouble was, it was 9:05am. Ice cream for breakfast? Mmmm?
I parked my bicycle, ducked my head under the 'Ice cream and Coffee' mini white strips of noren, opened the low-door timidly, and poked my head in. I got the feeling immediately that something amazing was going to happen if I went in. I noticed the beautifully preserved おす(push) panels on the door in golden hiragana unique, and squealed silently to myself. There was no doubt in my mind, that my day was about to get a whole better.
The very simple menu, hand written and glowing with age on the wall, consisted predominantly of coffee, tea and ice cream; that is 200 yen coffee and tea. So I sat there slowly at the beautifully old low table and shogakkoo (Elementary school) style chair comfy with my lovely morning tea, and observed the interior workings of this other era space. The polished raw floor like play marble smoothe, the perfect placement of a big rectangular wall mirror to people watch, and the nurturing colours of the timeworn deep brown about had me completely mesmerized. I also noticed a quietly brimming sense that I was protected from anything untoward. All this as I sipped my tea.
It was so amusing seeing two retired men on their way home from a mahjong game, eating ice cream at the opposite table together. I imagined it was part of their routine, and essential to their well being and wisdom. They kept peeking over at me taking notes in my wild handwriting, and asked me what I was studying. The main character though cannot easily be forgotten.
Mr. Tokuya is a tiny power-ball of a man; a storyteller ojiichan (Grand Pa), and a man with a bagful of jokes, compliments, and wit. He makes people feel good and creates an immediate connection with everybody he serves through a pee-wee window of face-to-face service. How do people get that way? It was beautiful to watch. The satisfaction smiles of the customers simply radiated. I don't witness that type of simple hospitality so often anymore. Do you?
The depth of my bilingual skills were outed when I laughed at Mr Tokuya's smoothe upselling strategy and joke magnificently silly.
“5 Monaka bars please” requested a man in a suit.
“How about 6? You can play janken (Stone, Scissor, Paper) with your workmates for the last one!” Mr Tokuya quips so naturally.
“Yeh, right-o” laughs the man, knowing that an extra one will surely grant him some kind of clemency upon his return to the office.
This kind of banter went on and on as customers casually ordered 20, 30 and even 40 Monaka bars at once. In August! It was just the 'done' thing.
“Omochi kaeri nanpun?” (How far are you going?) seemed to be the standard question.
You could sit there learning the names of all the inner-city places. Minami Morimachi. Honmachi. Tennoji. Uehonmachi. Tenjinbashi. I did learn that a destination 40-50 minutes away was possible, but not one hour. The 4th year university grandson of Mr Tokuya, wraps up the Monaka ice cream bars in newspaper for takeaway like a furoshiki style pouch. The more Monaka purchased, the more newspaper used. The further away the customer has to go, the more newspaper that is necessary. It was such a grand show of polished teamwork.
Sometimes the 'Dad' of the business came out to assist as well. They looked like 3 generations of men to me; all committed to the one goal of customer pleasure. They shared such a unique family energy, family love, and family earthiness. A truly inspiring place to spend some time that's for sure.
The Monaka ice cream bar deserves special applause as well.
100 yen liquid gold.
You can get to Zeeroku by the Chuo Line (C17), and the Sakaisuji Line (K15) through Exit 13 of Honmachi station.
With Sakaisuji at your back, walk up Honmachi Dori street about 3 blocks. On the right side, just before the greenery of the river begins, you will find Zeeroku.
OPEN 9:00 – 18:00 Monday to Friday,
and 9:00 – 15:00 on the 1st and 3rd Saturday.
CLOSED on Sundays and Public holidays.
Heading back to the original station, if you cross over at the intersection and walk a little bit (on the same side of the street), you will find the main Osaka branch of PAUL's boulangerie.
An exquisite looking establishment with creative bread designs and textures. There is also a second floor restaurant if you need to refuel.
If you want a change from going to the main branch of Umeda Kinokuniya Books, the Honmachi branch is just nearby here too (although perhaps not the same variety).
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